Everest North Col Expedition - 53 Days

Everest North Col Expedition
Everest North Col Expedition
Trip Details
  • Destination: Nepal
  • Trip Difficulty: Moderate

About Everest North Col Expedition

The North side of Mount Everest or Cho-Lungma (Qumolungma) is considerably more impressive than the south (Nepal) side. Rising in a sheer 3,000 m / 10,000 ft. from the Rongbuk Glacier, it towers above the Tibetan Plateau. It was to this side of the mountain that the British Expedition in the 1920’s and 30’s came, when Nepal was closed to westerners or foreigners.

Everest North Col ExpeditionFrom ABC follow the moraine towards the North Col. and cross the glacier easily to its foot. About 1,000 ft / 300 m of fairly deep snow climbing leads to the Col at 7,066 m. The Col forms a fairly wide ridge which has ample room for tents. This will be Camp I. To the south, the Col rises to become the North Ridge. This is straight-forward snow climbing, eventually steeping into rocky shelves and short buttresses. A second camp will be placed at around 7,700 m. The very first ascent by the Chinese in 1960, from the North Ridge since then it has been climbed numerous times. In the last few years it has received the attention of several commercial expeditions, and with careful planning the same success rates as the south side is possible. Gaining 8000m is demanding but it is the last 848m that are the most strenuous. The route to the North East Ridge leading from the top of the North Ridge to the summit will depend on conditions prevailing at the time. We will either follow the North Ridge in its entirely to the crest of the North-North-East Ridge or make a rising traverse to the right to reach the ridge at a higher point. The last camp will be placed at around 8,300 m.


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